16.6.08

The Worlds Top Water Bass Fishing Champion And His Techniques

I was fishing a small lake in central California back in 1980, I think it was that year. I had been fishing for a couple of hours and doing ok, catching some 1-2 pound fish and in a far I was fishing a small lake in central California back in 1980, I think it was that year. I had been fishing for a couple of hours and doing ok, catching some 1-2 pound fish and in a far distance I could see this man walking up with a bright red jacket. The closer he got, the more I noticed his jacket and all the patches on it, one said 1978 World Top Water Bass Fishing Champion, along with about 20 other patches. We began to talk, of course, I wanted to know all about him and he began to tell me about how he became champion. Now, I do want to say one thing here, I forget what he told me and I don't even know for sure if there is such a tournament for the World Top Water Championship but I watched this guy fish.

He was probably in his 50's or early 60's at the time and fished this lure different than I have seen before so I paid special attention. Finally, after seeing him catch a half dozen fish while I caught two I asked him what he was doing and what bait he was using that he was doing so well. He said he only used one kind of bait and opened up his tackle box. Can you imagine my surprise when the only lure he had in there was Rapalas. I mean bunches of Rapalas, every color and size you could imagine. I said where's the rest of your lures, he smiled and said this is all I use. By the way, at the time I was fishing with a Rapala, that was ironic to me. I said "that is what I'm using now".

He said "yeah, I see that but you're not fishing it right". Well, I had fished for bass for about 25 or so years then and wondered what in the world he was talking about, me not fishing it right. I had fished Rapalas for as long as I can remember. So, I said "what are you talking about not fishing it right?". He said "well, all you're doing is throwing the lure in and reeling it back. I said "yeah". He said" have you ever noticed a minnow or shad or whatever, he said they never go very far, they usually move a few inches at a time and they dart." He said "that lure of yours is supposed to imitate the baitfish the bass is after so make it act like one." Then he showed me and guess what? He was right!

His acted just like a baitfish and even looked like one swimming the way he did it. As he stood there twitching the end of his rod and letting it sit every two or three twitches then twitch it two or three times more and let it sit, I seen his point. I also seen him catch another bass, which made me a believer. Now I don't know if this man was the top water champion or not but I do know one thing.........his technique works.

I have used it on most of my retrieves anytime I fish top water and it works. Cast the lure, let it sit, twitch the end of your rod two or three times and let it set again. The only thing I have done is add one additional move. I throw the lure out and let it sit, twitch the rod two or three times and let it sit and then I move the lure so slow it barely cause a ripple and that is when I get most of my hits. Try this techniques the next time you fish your favorite top water lure and see the results.

By Charles E. White


What Has Happened to the Cod Stocks Off the Shores of Newfoundland?

The Newfoundland cod stocks. What has happened to cod fishing off the Grand Banks of Newfoundland?

Several centuries ago, John Cabot, sailing under the English flag, found the richest fishing area the world would come to know. Cod stocks in the Grand Banks region off the coast of Newfoundland were so bountiful and endless that the wheels starting to turn. England saw the potential wealth that cod fishing could bring their country.

Cod fish, once caught, could be dried and salted and sailed back to Europe. Cod was light and easily transported and furthermore, less expensive that other meats such as beef, pork, or lamb. At that point in time, the wealth that cod could bring to the European market was thought to surpass that of South American gold or Caribbean sugar.

The English fisherman saw large cod fish, sturgeon and salmon and very much plentiful. Huge oysters, herring, and squid were also found in endless amounts.

Today, sorry to say, that Newfoundland's cod stocks are gone. During the deep-sea, mechanized trawler days, the cods stocks have been no match for the large nets of these trawlers. The entire peninsula of Newfoundland was dependent upon the fishing industry for its employment. People either fished the waters, built the ships that fished the waters or worked in the fish plants. Now the employment is gone as well.

The cod stocks are returning but we will ever see cod rebound to their once glorious numbers? We can only hope.

By Catherine Kenyeres


Do you Know How to Take the Perfect Picture of Your Fish?

Nothing is better than to snap a photo of your big fish that you just caught.

You've spent the day out on the lake and then you feel a pull at the line. You finally pull that big one in and you decide to get a great snapshot of you holding the fish. Wait!

Make use of these valuable tips before you go. You want to make sure that the fish and you look exactly like those snaps in the magazines and on the Internet. How do you do it? It's simple by following a few basic techniques.

One of the most effective tips for good fish picture taking is the use of a wide-angle lens. By using a wide-angle lens, the photographer can get closer to the subject which will be you and your fish. This way, the fish will look bigger. As well, make sure that the sun is behind the photographer.

And lastly, the fish photos look the best when taken when the fish is just out of the water. The wet look of the fish gives the fish sheen and enhances the color. Great! The perfect picture of you and your fish.



By Catherine Kenyeres


Do You Know How to Fillet a Fish?

Finally you've caught the perfect fish. Now, do you know how to fillet your fish?

You can't be happier. You have finally caught the perfect fish. Do you know how to fillet your fish? Once you become an expert at fish filleting, you probably will be asked to fillet everyone else's catch.

Firstly, get a good knife and a cutting board or hard surface and lay the fish down on it. You must cut the head of the fish off right to the rear of its gills.

Secondly, holding the fish by its tail, take the knife with the blade pointing away from your body and toward where the head was; slice the body of the fish crosswise. The backbone of the fish can be used to direct the knife through.

Thirdly, take one half of the sliced fish and place the fish piece flesh side up. Holding the fish piece by the tail, place the knife between the skin and the flesh and run the knife down the length of the fish piece to remove the skin cutting in the direction of the tail to the head area. Now there. A perfectly filleted fish.

By Catherine Kenyeres


Pitchin For Large Mouth Bass

Well, we have talked about flippin and now we'll mention pitchin.

Both techniques are used to fish cover and to do it quietly. Use pitchin when the distance is too long for flippin, to fish under boat docks, brush piles, logs and shallow water. You can use pitchin to fish with most baits but some of the favorites are of course, jigs, spinner baits, worms and lizards. Lots of people prefer a wide gap hook. A good stout rod 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 foot long with a flexible tip and lots of backbone is the best to use when fishing cover, you want the rod to be able to pull the fish out of the cover you're fishing. A high speed reel with a ratio of 6.1-6.2 for a quick hook set is good.

The technique: Hold the rod in your right hand (if right handed)with the tip pointed upward and disengage the spool on the reel, let out enough line so the lure is even with the reel. Grab the lure with your left hand an hold the rod at the butt by your shoulder with the rod tip down. Your left hand should be at your side, now release the lure and lift the rod at the same time, lure should move on a downward swing at your target just above the water surface. When you reach the bottom of downward swing and the lure is going parallel with the water's surface let the line off the reel.

If you have the timing right and everything is as it should be, the lure will continue parallel to the water. Remember you are not trying to throw the lure but swinging it. Don't let the line go slack and stop the lure at the target and it should enter quietly. When the lure hits the water, let line out so the lure goes straight down and not back at you. Reel the lure back towards you until there is enough line out like where you started when the lure was even with the reel and do it again. Keep in mind the purpose of this techniques is to fish quietly.

Is anyone besides me ready for spring?

By Charles E. White


Swordfishing Fort lauderdale Style

I was laying down on the bow of the boat gazing at the brilliant stars on this moonless night. All of the rods were set out, staggered by depths and distance away from the boat. As we all were enjoying ourselves on this night away from the anxieties of life, we listened to the clickers make there familiar tunes as the waves picked us up and put us back down. I prefer to keep to keep the drags loose, clickers on and then tighten up after the strike. All of the rods sounded alike going click,--- click,--- click... I got up from the bow and said, "something don't sound right". One of the rods was going a bit faster, click, click, click. It was like a shark bite, steady and slow. I ran over to the rod and put the drag lever in the strike position and waited for the fishes turn. Within a few seconds the rod tip bent over, and I yelled "We got one!" I cranked hard and fast and then the rod really doubled over but this fish still didn't take any drag. I don't think the fish knew there was a hook set in him. I tried to crank some more but the spool stood still with the rod bent over. Within a split second we got the reaction of a lifetime. The drag started slipping like we hooked on to a locomotive and would not stop. It seemed to go on forever as the line quickly disappeared off the Penn 80 TW, it looked like we were going to get spooled. We were fishing in about 1,400 feet of water and it looked like we had about that much line out. With less than half the line left the heated drag started slowing down. Now it was our turn. "The bent butt rod stays in the rod holder" I said to the rod man, "just crank the best you can and keep that rod tip bent at all times keeping consistent pressure on the fish". We were able to get about 3 quarters of the spool back when our fish decided to make another locomotive run. This fish took what he wanted, when he wanted. We were in for a big battle. Paying close attention is crucial during this fight, because pressure has to be kept on this fish 100 % of the time. Three people are on this boat and we each got about 5 turns to crank this baby in as we could only last no more than 15 minutes each. Over three hours later then I stuck a large flying gaff into a Broadbill Swordfish estimated over 300 lbs. This is what world class Sword fishing is all about.

The following are some tips from me, the Captain, on rigging for this night excursion:

Boat rigging:

You will need a seaworthy boat, either chartered or owned, All running lights need to be in working order; Port, Starboard, and Stern lights. These lights are mandatory and very important since there are shipping lanes in our fish zone. You must be able to identify and be identified when you're on the water at night. Knowledge of vessel lights is important so as to avoid a collision course. Keep all loose articles either tied down or in a locker as you make the long run offshore. Always do manual checks on your bile pumps. I take a hose and start filling up the bilge. If your float switches are working the bilge pumps will come on automatically and you're ready to roll.

Fishing line:

800 yards of 50 pound test should get most jobs done. Most guys are going with the braided lines which have a smaller diameter than monofilament does and have double the strength. As an example we have used 200 lb. braided Tuff line which has a diameter of 50 lb. test mono, therefore we can spool over 1000 yards on to a Penn 80TW. This might sound overkill but I like to fish all my rods ready for that 400 pounder.

Reels:

50 weight reels such as Finore, Penn, and Shimano's 2-speed are the preferred minimum. If you size down you take a risk of getting spooled or the drag might not hold up against the pressure. It can be done but it takes good skill. The Broadbill Swordfish has been known to reach over 1000 pounds, but more common in the 100-200 pound range.

Rods:

A nice short stick in the 50 -80 pound class is an awesome rod. A bent butt rod is my choice for handling a big fish. Extra large Aftco roller guides are some of the best guides to have and play an important role when line strips off the reel. They help to keep your wind-ons from getting damaged.

Leaders:

To start, wind-on leaders should be used and can be purchased at most offshore tackle shops. They help when your fish comes close to the boat and does not want to cooperate. The extra length of heavy mono will safeguard your line when it chafes on the bottom of your boat or goes around the props. A 40 turn bimini needs to be tied to the end of your main line, then connect the loop that is on your wind-on to the loop on your bimini by taking your wind-on loop and insert it through your bimini. Then take the tag end of your wind-on leader and pass it through the wind-on loop 2 times, then pull tight. Next you need to connect a 300 lb. strength ball-bearing swivel or better to the end of the wind-on using a crimp that matches your line strength. I use 300 pound leaders with the crimps to match and also chaffing gear to reduce any wear and tear to the leader connections.

Now you need to connect 8-10 feet of the same strength leader to the other end of the ball-bearing swivel. Don't forget the chaffing gear.

Hooks:

You are near the final stages. Size 10/0 Mustad hooks are the average and are worthy. The following are 2 single hook rigs:

The first one is easy and used for live bait. Just crimp your hook, (use chaffing gear) to the end of the leader. Keep your loops small as you crimp the hook, but big enough so that the hook swings freely. Live baits should be bridled through the eye sockets and not through the eyeballs. I use 50 pound strength wax line with an open eye needle for bridling. Then I insert the hook upwards under the bridle.

The 2nd rig is a squid rig. It is almost like the first except you use 2 crimps. Pass the first crimp through the tag end so it slides freely then crimp your 2nd one the same way as the live bait rig, only this time leave about 2 inches of the tag end pass through the crimp. Next take your medium to large squid and insert the hook about ¾ of an inch down from the top of the mantle and pull through past your crimp and extra tag line. Then take your free moving crimp and bring it down and insert that extra tag line into the crimp, but do not crimp down on it. This will hold up your squid as if on a coat hanger. Then you will need to re-insert the hook back through the squid making sure the squid hangs straight when all is finished. Next take your bridling needle and floss and sow the squids head and tentacle section to the mantle piece. This section is delicate on the squid and might even pull off. Making sure everything looks normal to the fish is important. Using the needle and thread will make the squid stay intact on the strike.

Accessories:

As you prepare to deploy your lines you will need a supply of 12-32 oz weights, light sticks, balloons and rubber bands. The first line to be set out will be the furthest from the boat and also the deepest, 250-350 feet deep. First things first, crack your light stick or twist your Electralume and attach it to your leader with a wax line loop tied on your line anywhere from 10-40 feet away from the bait. Then rig your bait as we did earlier. Throw your bait overboard and go at least 20-50 feet behind the bait to attach your weight by using another wax line loop. Make this connection tight so the weight does not slide around the line. The heavier the weight the faster your bait pulls through the water. Heavier weights for dead baits like Squid, Bonita and small Mackerel and lighter weights for live bait like Blue Runners, goggle eyes, Tinkers etc.

Set your first jug or balloon far from the boat, at least 200 feet away with a cylume attached for a good visual. You're ready for rod # 2. This rod will go 2-250 feet down, then attach your balloon or jug and set this line in between the boat and the furthest balloon. Space the balloons about 100 feet apart. Your next rod will go down 150-200 feet. To avoid all the counting I will pre-measure my lines at home and mark them by tying half hitches with wax line. This way when you deploy your lines, just let out the line slowly until you reach your marker. This last rod does not need a balloon, it is fished right below the boat. If you use more rods you need to set your first balloon further from the boat, and perhaps a 2nd rod at the boat, one on the bow, one on the stern.

It is a good idea to get an under water light that can be kept right under the transom. This light will attract fish, and you can see passing Turtles, Dolphin and other baits come right into the light looking for something to eat and sometimes even a Swordfish will swim through.

Prior to all the rigging, the most important part is to set your drags. With 50 pound line, 8-10 pounds of drag is sufficient at the strike drag position. With heavier lines, 12 pounds of drag is more than enough. The lower jaw on the Swordfish is very soft and if a hook gets lodged in that section it will pull when under enough pressure. If the hook gets lodged in the upper section you can use more drag, but you never know where he's hooked so stay light on the drag and bring that fish to the boat. Shimano's drag scales are a great tool for measuring your drags.

Your final step is to tune your drag levers after you deploy each line. Some Captains prefer to keep their drag lever in the strike position I prefer to keep them loose with the clickers on, just enough so you don't hear the line pay out when the waves lift the boat up and down.

You are now Sword fishing!

Remember there is a size limit of 47 inches from the tip of the lower jaw to the fork of the tail. There is nothing wrong with releasing fish bigger than 47 inches either. Sinking a gaff into a fish near 200 pounds or better is a much better accomplishment.

If you would like to see it all firsthand contact Captain Cary Hanna @ captcary@newlattitude.com to take you out for this deep sea adventure.

By Captain Cary Hanna


Spinnerbait Tactics That Work

How many fish have you missed?

It is said you could be missing over half the fish that are coming after your spinner bait. Why? Because you're getting short strikes.

There is one way to fix that situation and it's easy to do.....add a trailer hook! Maybe one trailer hook isn't enough, you can add two or even three. Yes three, Hank Parker says he uses up to three trailer hooks, if it's good enough for Hank then it's good enough for me.

A lot of people think you put a trailer hook up on the spinner bait hook, that isn't the case.

For best results, put the trailer hook down by the tip of the hook of the spinner bait, that allows for more natural movement and doesn't confine the hook.

Think about it, if you're getting short strikes then they aren't going to hit the first hook anyway. Try this the next time you go out and see the difference.

By Charles E. White


Do You Make Your Kids Fishing Experience Enjoyable?

If you take your children fishing with you, they can enjoy something for the rest of their lives, as long as you make it pleasant for them.

If on the other hand, you yell, scream and get upset with them a lot, then they won't enjoy it and neither will you. Make their fishing trips enjoyable and teach them responsibility at the same time.

Let them get their own rod and reel ready with your help. Let them pack it in the car, get their own tackle ready. The only thing you really want to watch is the hooks if they're really young.

Of course, if they need help then you give it to them. What they learn now will be with them forever. It is said the first few years of their life builds their character forever.

Make their fishing experience pleasurable and they will always love to fish and love you for taking them.. It sure beats drugs!

By Charles E. White


Fishing Topwater in Lily Pads

In 2004, I fished more lily pads than ever before? Why? Well, because I caught fish in them. I probably caught over 100 fish in the lily pads this year alone. Two were over 5 pounds and one over 6 pounds. So what did I do different this year?

I'm glad you asked......I used a lure called the scum frog, green and white, not only that but I fished it different than ever before. You see, I used to go slow, I mean real slow, my way of thinking was that even though the bass is a fast swimmer, he would have a hard time catching up with the lure through the pads, if I retrieved it fast. Not only that, but, I wanted to put it in his face a lot longer by going slow on my retrieve.

Well, then I watched this guy and he was running it through the lily pads almost as fast as any buzz bait I have seen used. I was using the same lure except slow. The outcome? Well, he was getting strikes, I mean lots of strikes, I was getting none. So, I went back over the same area I just fished and guess what? Yep, I began getting strikes, but I was missing them as the lure would get past the fish. I thought maybe I should compromise, so, I slowed down my retrieve just a hair and bingo, I started catching fish. That is the way I used the scum frog for the rest of the fishing season. Fast, but not quite as fast as a buzz bait, when they would hit and miss I would stop the bait and just twitch it a few times. This was one of my best fishing years in over 40 of fishing for bass, all due to this new retrieve. As Mikey says "Try it you might like it".

By Charles E. White


Four Fly Fishing Tips

Good Fly Presentation

Obviously, the goal when casting a fly is to present the fly to the fish in a realistic manner. You are trying to simulate nature here. If you are going for trout in a stream, for instance, this means a drag-free float of 36 inches over a precise spot that marks the window of a feeding fish.

Never randomly cast - you have got to pick a spot and hit it. Throw tight loops that put the fly on target. One important method that can be used is to overcast the target and stop the line short while it is in the air. The fly should come back to you and fall on the water with slack in the leader.

The best trout fishermen fish with only 30 to 35 feet of line, but make up for this with accurate casting. They read waters will and put the fly in the p ay zone time after time. One of the most important thins they do is to recognize that presentation and approach are much more important than pattern.

It is different for bass. Whether a surface bug or a streamer, the offering must move past a spot where a bass is apt to hold. As the boat drifts, it is important to pick a precise time to shoot a cast to the target. Too soon or too late, and the fly won't be in the right spot. This is where the double haul form of casting becomes essential. It generates line speed and enables the caster to pick 30 or 40 feet of line off the water and shoot another without false casting.

When bassing, make your presentation, retrieve 10 to 20 feet, pick up, and cast again without the need to false cast. After each one, drop the rod type and keep the butt of the rod near your belt buckle with the tip-top of the rod pointing at the line. A simple lift will let you execute the next pickup or strike a fish.

Leader Connection

If you are a fly caster, you know that a smooth connection between the leader and fly line is important in presentation. The best way to do this is to nail-knot a six-inch piece of 25-30 pound leader material to the end of the fly line. A loop like those found on snelled hooks is then tied into the opposite end. The connecting leader must also have a loop.

Connecting the leader itself is done by passing the loop attached to the fly line through the loop on the leader; reaching through the fly line loop. Next, grab the butt section of the leader and pull the leader up through until the tippet passes the loop. Last, just pull the loops together by tugging on the fly line and the butt section in opposite directions.

Strategy

If you are every in a situation where see large brown trout in open water and hold, your best bet is to use a No. 12 Cinnamon Ant and sink it. If this doesn't work, move to the No.16 Adams fly. Still nothing? Switch to the No. 20 Black Ant. Last-ditch effort would be to use a 3X tippet and use a No. 6 nymph or streamer.

Typically the bigger trout will leave small morsels to the small guys, preferring the bigger bites that are easy to get. They are very economical feeders.

High Rider Dry Fly's

If your best dry-fly patterns are failing you, it may be time to switch to spiders and variants. Many times a spider or variant will bring trout to the surface, then you can switch back to a conventional dry fly.

These spiders and variants will delicately drop to the water, usually somersaulting or jumping after touching it. Fish find this very alluring.

High riding is another attribute of these flies. When tied properly, their hackles support the hook above the water's surface, thus imitating a natural fly much more closely than the ordinary fly does.


By Frank Faldo


Ice Fishing in the Wisconsin Winter

It's late December... temperatures are racing towards 0 degrees. Ice is covering most of the lakes in Wisconsin and getting thick on the lakes in the Northern half of the state.

This is the time of the year when the die-hards come out to take on the bitter cold to do what they love... fish!

But ice fishing doesn't have to be just for those fishing fanatics. If you usually put fishing into the back of your mind during the cold winter, you might want to think about reaching back and pulling it to the front a few months early. Ice fishing is definitely different than fishing in the middle of a muggy Wisconsin summer, but it may be more fun than you might be thinking it is.

Ice fishing isn't just about staring down into a dark hole in the middle of a big cold lake freezing your butt off... if you put your line in the water and do nothing but sit and stare at the hole and never get a bite, that could end up being a long boring day, but you can make it fun (but if the fish are active and biting, then it will be fun regardless!)...

Go with friends! Unless you need some "alone time," ice fishing with friends or family always makes for a better experience. Since ice fishing is more of a waiting game than fast-action summer fishing is, if you don't have somebody to talk to, you might start talking to yourself! If you do go along, at least bring a radio.

Got snowmobiles or ATVs? Do you know somebody who does? Take them out on the lake with you. Set your tip-ups up, and then go for a ride around the lake... as long as you don't get to far away from your tip-ups, you may be able to do a little exploring or have a little fun while your waiting for that 8 pound walleye to take your bait.

Don't forget that hot chocolate or coffee! If it's cold, nothing helps keep you warm like a hot drink... and to me, no other hot drink beats hot chocolate. Soup is always good too... and if you plan on making a lunch on the lake from all the fish your catching, be sure to bring cooking supplies, including something to actually cook the fish with.

If you're going with friends, bring something to toss around... a football, frisbee, hacky-sack, whatever... just don't kill yourself diving for a catch on the ice! These things will at least keep you busy while you wait for that tip-up flag to spring up.

Just remember, to make sure that you stay close enough to the tip-ups at all times so that you can respond within a reasonable time of the flag going up.

So, if you've always stuck to summer fishing and never wanted to venture out fishing during the winter months, you ought to give it a try this winter... you might just find out what a great rewarding experience it can be...

And just remember, unlike Wisconsin's muggy summers, there are absolutely no bugs biting you while you are ice fishing, so you can keep that mosquito spray at home!

By Scott Pinkert


Bass Fishing Tips

3 Lures You Must Have

Do you know what the top 3 lures for catching Bass are? Though there aren't any specific statistics, a survey was conducted amongst the pro bass fishermen and it was found that plastic worms won by a large margin. Second and third place were the spinnerbait and then the crank bait.

Picking one of these 3 is not enough, however. You must take into account the lake you are fishing on before you select your lure. Especially you must consider if it is better to cover a smaller segment of water thoroughly or skim across a larger expanse as quickly as possible to find fish. Using a worm is slower, but extremely effective and is very seductive to Bass. They do best when the fish are schooled over a particular structure.

Spinnerbait can be moved more quickly across the surface and can be bounced on the bottom, sent against a tree limb and moved in many different ways in order to stimulate strikes. It is a great probing lure for the shoreline because of its tangle-free construction.

Crankbaits cover a lot of water in a hurry. Using them, you can check out a spot without wasting too much time. You can use them for locating fish that may be scattered.

The bottom line is, whatever lure you select for the particular lake that you are fishing on, you need to make it as easy for the Bass to get at it as possible. Drop that lure right in front of them. Scientists have proven that Bass calculate the amount of energy it will take them to go after the prey vs. the return.

Learn to fish all 3 of these lures effectively, and you will catch more than your share of big game Bass!

When to fish for bass

Dawn and dusk are definitely when the biggest bass can be brought in. First, remember that bass love ambush spots offering lots of cover from the baitfish. They like to hid, and pounce on their prey.

These bait fish are most active in the early morning or evening. When they feed, bass follow because the baitfish are less aware of threats when they feed. Go out fishing during these times for the best success - additionally you will have the water to yourself as most anglers don't fish during these times.

The first excellent lure to use is a plug that looks like a mouse - very productive. Also use a big spent-wing moth made out of deer hair. Body and wings should be about the size of your forefinger. The idea is to twitch it along as if it is injured and trying to get in the air. Other surface plugs that chug, waddle, or have spinners are usually productive as well as buzzing lures that squeak. The most effective is a slim-minnow lure (a floating diving type). It resembles an elongated minnow at rest on the surface, and the lure will dive quickly when twitched, and then pop back up as if injured.

When retrieving an underwater lure in poor light, keep it coming at a steady pace once it is set in motion. This will make it easier for bass to locate and grab it.

The last thing is, don't bother going out in the dawn/dusk when water is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature wipes out certain aquatics and terrestrials, which nullifies the food chain feeding.

Water Quality Considerations

You need to fish bass differently in different kinds of water quality. Follow the general guidelines below to get better results.

Muddy Water: In low-visibility water, a bass finds food using its sonar senses. You must use lures with the best vibration and noise. You can tell if a lure has a high vibration by feeling the shaking of your rod as you bring in the lure. Use your heaviest vibrators and keep them coming at a steady pace so that bass can detect it.

Clear Water: Bass are overly cautious in clear water with high visibility. Their survival instincts kick in, and they are wary of anything out of the ordinary. Use lighter lines that are less visible. Also, use longer casts and lures that resemble bass food in the area. Spinners usually work in clear water, but if they are not working try a black spinner blade to reduce the flash.

Normal Water: This water has normal algae and plankton that filters out sunlight. It is ideal for all types of lures, as the bass are not timid. Use the shotgun approach here and set up 3 outfits, one using a surface lure, one using a deep diver, and the last using a plastic worm. Do about 10 casts with each, and then switch them up to different variations. This is a great way to find out what is working.

Fishing a Plastic Worm

Here are some techniques that you should consider for fishing plastic worms for bass in different situations:

Turbid water - bass are sight and sound feeders, and it is important to add turbulence to the plastic worm. Add a No. 3 Hildebrandt gold spinner just ahead of the hook. This sets up a flashing, hissing, throbbing attraction that bass can hear at considerable distances.

Clear water - Cut down the size of the worm, line, and sinker so that bass will have a harder time seeing the lure.

Big vibe worms - Use a worm with a curly tail design that gives off extremely strong vibrations. Try these worms when your straight worms fail to score.

Skipping - This is the only method to get under overhanging branches. You need a spin casting or spinning rig because a level wind reel just doesn't ski8p well. Make a flat hard cast onto the water's surface so that it will make a low skip. This will reach bass hangouts impossible to attain in any other way.

Ripping - This will surprise reluctant bass to strike a worm. Let the worm settle to the bottom and lie there for about 20 seconds. Reel slack out of the line and pick up the worm with a long, sharp upsweep of the rod tip. Let it settle to the bottom under tension as you slowly lower the rod tip. Repeat for three or four rips. Strikes will come.

Drift trolling - move to the head of a deep hole and let the wind carry you quietly across the lake while your worm crawls across bottom cover. Raise and lower the worm as it contacts bottom. Pickups usually happen as the worm is being pulled off the cover.

Flyrodding - Fill a single action flyreel with backing and about 50 yards of 10-pound monofilament. Rig a six-inch worm weedless and add a small split-shot ahead of the hook so it will sink slowly. Either flip or flat-cast the worm into every pocket you see and feed it line as it slowly settles to bottom. Keep the flyrod tip low so that you can make a long, sweeping strike when you feel a bass inhale the worm. This is practical in ponds, lakes or streams.

Worm rig

One of the biggest problems with fishing a worm is the inability to sense strikes. Usually the inability to sense them is due to a sinker that is too heavy and a line that is too thick.

Use a variable buoyancy worm using lead strip sinkers. Here are some advantages:

No moving lead on the line to dampen the feel of a gentle pickup You can apply the precise amount of lead to deliver the worm action needed It makes it easier for a bass to inhale the worm It aids in hook setting It's easier to shake loose from snags You can cause the worm to hang virtually suspended over the bottom when fishing shallow water.

To tell how much lead strip is needed, wrap one strip around the hook and bury the barb in the worm. Ease it into the water and watch it sink, it should barely settle toward the bottom. If it sinks to fast, take some off, etc. A slow decent is the ticket here.

Make sure to use no heavier than 8-pound mono line - preferably 6 pound.

Weather Matters

In the early spring and fall bass will smash top water lures such as floating propeller types and poppers. They are also likely to take surface lures when found in shallow water, such as along shorelines near overhanging trees.

As the temperature rises and the bass are in the cooler, deeper holes, change your technique. You need something to dredge the bottom. The plastic worm is ideal for this, even the most sluggish bass will respond when you drag one slowly past its nose.

Crank baits

When fishing a tidal river for bass, cast crank baits near the mouths of tiny feeder streams on the falling tide. Bass hang out where the water depth drops off, waiting for crayfish, crabs and minnows to be washed out.

Bait

One of the best baits for small mouth bass in rivers is the hellgrammite, the larva of the Dobson fly. Gather these from beneath rocks in shallow riffles with a mesh net or seine. Fish them on No. 4 or 6 fine-wire hooks, drifting them naturally through pools and runs below rapids.

A Trick Most Bass Fishermen Don't Know

Cast a worm over a limber branch and reel it back so that its tail just touches the water. Then jiggle the rod tip, making the worm squirm and wriggle just above the surface. Bass will often leap right out of the water to snatch it.

Night Fishing

Many anglers have the idea that bass do not see well at night and won't strike. Although it is true that bass cannot see well at night, but they have an amazing ability to pick up disturbances on the water and hone in on unsuspecting bait. Given this, lures that vibrate will cause the most underwater disturbance and are most effective. You can also drill a small hole in balsa or plastic lures to place small BB's in them to make some noise.

By Frank Faldo


10 Fishing Gems

Fishing Gem #1 - When Is Best?

If you are in a boat and plan to anchor and bottom fish, get out there before the sun goes down and set up .

Over many years, it has been noticed that a good bite usually starts 2 hours before sunrise. Use an alarm clock to make sure you don't miss it!

You want to be set up and ready to wet-bait a half hour before the sun sets. Anchoring and cooking needs to be done prior to the sunset. Cooking while evening fishing can be hazardous and spills may occur!

One of the reasons to be all set up at least 30 minutes before dark is that there is usually a minor bite ½ hour before or after either sunrise or sunset. Typically they feed shallower during this minor bite - about 30 feet down in many cases.

Remember, on most bodies of water, the remaining minutes at twilight can be absolutely magical for fishermen.

Fishing Gem #2 - Go Towards The Light!

For good fast action (in either saltwater or freshwater), try to fish around piers with lights on the end of them. Most successful night fishing excursions occur around lights on buoys or piers.

Fishing Gem #3 - Can't Forget The Stream Fishermen!

Brown trout are so active after dark that it sometimes is possible to fish in just one pool and, in a good stream, take one trout after another. Use very large dry flies, oversized streamers, wet flies, and nymphs. The larger flies are easier for night-feeding trout to locate. You should fish them very slowly. With wet and streamer flies you can leave them suspended in the current near the surface and frequently take trout, although this system would not normally work during the day. Big dry flies can be drawn slowly along the surface of the water in a jerking motion to help attract trout. Some fishermen use small popping bugs when fishing for trout at night.

Fishing Gem #4 - Things To Know About Hooking Up With Stripers

Most successful Striper fishing excursions occur around lights on buoys or docks in deep water (up to 100 feet!).

There are also reports that Stripers will not go near an area where dead Stripers have been dumped for days. Some believe dead or wounded Striper let off an odor that keeps others away.

In most lakes, you will be more successful using jig heads than hooks and sinkers and Shad are a much more effective bait than anchovies.

Fishing Gem #5 - Keep That Bait Alive And Kickin'!

One secret to keeping your bait alive while waiting for the sun to set is to paint the inside of your bait tank black. Bait fish will typically swim towards the light, which in daylight would mean they are banging themselves against the sides of your bait tank. Your bait will live much longer if you eliminate daytime light, so they will stay in one place to avoid self-destruction.

Fishing Gem #6 - Listen Up!

When you fish after dark, always be alert for signs of feeding fish. At night your normally hear feeding fish before you see their swirls or splashes. When you hear a fish break the surface, chuck your lure to the spot as soon as possible. Remember that fish often have trouble locating a lure at night, so make repeated casts to spots you think hold fish.

Fishing Gem #7 - Deep Water Essential

Under deep-water conditions, you should to use a bait-caster in combination with a long graphite rod that has a lot of backbone. This setup will enable you to move a lot of line and will ensure a solid hook set in the deeper water. In addition, you should also utilize your black light to carefully watch the bow in your line to detect subtle strikes as the bait drops. These tactics will produce when fish are holding to a deep-water pattern and most other areas are not producing.

Fishing Gem #8 - It Ain't All Peaches And Cream On A Boat!

The possible downsides of night fishing are that you need to limit your group socializing and partying; it just won't work if you want to catch fish. It's also not recommended for young children, and not for more than 2 to a boat, unless the boat is large. If you had to ride out a storm, it would be a bit scarier than in the day. If the fishing is good (which it usually is at night), be willing to alter your sleep patterns.

Fishing Gem #9 - Lake Fishing Keys To Success

Main lake points offer excellent opportunities to catch fish at night. If the action slows down, come back later and you can catch additional fish from the exact same point.

Colors ranging from red/black, blue/black, green/black to chartreuse/orange seem to work well on all lakes throughout the summer. It is wise to carry a wide assortment of colors, weights, and blade sizes to meet the demands of the fish.

Main lake points and secondary points are key areas that attract fish at night throughout the summer months. Basically, the fish are inactive during the day due to the hot temperatures and will suspend in deep water off of the points. However they will move onto the points at night to ambush schools of baitfish. These locations are fairly easy to locate and can be fished very quickly allowing you to cover a lot of water in a short period of time.

Fishing Gem #10 - Live-Bait Catching!

Obviously have some bait jigs ready when you need to replenish your stock of live bait on board. For rapid bait catching, the Evening Secret is one of the best solutions, especially at night.


By Frank Faldo


Fishing Equipment Tips

Cheap Sinkers

Spark plugs make excellent disposable sinkers. Need some cheap (free) fishing weights? Go to any gas station and ask for them. Then, loop a rubber band through the electrode and then tapping the wire down the plug can be attached to a loop of monofilament. The rubber band stretches when the plug is hung up, and even if the extra stretching force isn't enough to break free, the band will break before the monofilament.

Jig Weights

Jigs are one of the most versatile game-fish catchers in either fresh or saltwater. It is so important to have the right weight jig for your line weight. If the jig is too heavy for the line, you will loose your jig far too easily. If the jig is too light for the line, its swimming pattern will be disrupted and it won't be ass effective. This simple chart will help you select the correct jig:

Line Strength Jig Size
4-lb. Test 1/16 to 1/8 oz.
6-lb. Test 1/8 to ¼ oz.
8-lb. Test ¼ to 3/8 oz.
10-lb. Test ¼ to ½ oz.
12-lb. Test 3/8 to 5/8 oz.
14 to 20-lb. Test 5/8 to ¾ oz

Treble Hook Replacement

When replacing the treble hooks on your lures, there are a few things to consider. Chang the split ring too because it is subject to stress and rust. Use a stainless-steel split ring for strength. They do not spread or rust as to most of those that come wit h the plugs. Don't, however, use stainless steel hooks - they are more easily bent out of shape by a fighting fish. Also, if a fish gets away with your plug, stainless steel will not rust out, as a plain steel hook will. Lastly, get some split-ring pliers - they make changing your hooks easy.

Extra Springs

If you use a spinning reel, you have probably had a spring break when the fishing gets really hot. Always carry extras (use a 35mm-film canister) - and make sure to have a little screwdriver along as well. Practice changing it before you go out

No-slip Soles

If your winter boot soles are worn, just cut the liner to match the sole of an old sneaker. Fasten the felt to the sneaker sole with a non-soluble glue. Please a heavy object on top of the sneaker overnight, and by morning you have an all purpose non-slip shoe.

Snag-proof Spinners

Treble hooks are oftentimes "trouble" when using spinners, causing snags. Make them snag-free by removing the treble hook and replace with a single hook. Next thread on a three to four inch twister-tail grub and Texas-rig it.

Downriggers

Need to drop your bait down deep? Fish are very uncooperative creatures, and don't always hang out near the surface. If your depth sounder is alerting you to fish down deeper, a downrigger can really help out.

If you aren't exactly sure what it is, it is simple. It is a spool holding between 200-600 feet of steel cable. There is a weight attached that is between 6-12 pounds. Additionally there is a quick-release line gripper, just like a clothespin.

The fishing lines from your rods are attached to the quick-release mechanisms. Then the entire thing is dropped down to the depth you want. The bait is far enough from the weight and line gripper not to spook the fish. If you get a bite, the line is released from the gripper, so it is just you and the fish!

Some downriggers have fish-attractant properties (either electrical, or a special kind of paint), but not most of them.

Downriggers work great for deep trolling, and some even have an electronic crank that will bring everything up. If you need to get at deeper schools of fish, these are highly recommended.

Nail Polish Helps

Does your spoon, spinner, or plug get the paint chipped after only a few casts? Use clear fingernail polish to protect the paint and increase durability. Carry a bottle with you when you are fishing, and give it a shot.

Ferrules

If there is dirt on your ferrule it can contribute to rapid wear. Make a plug out of wood to help keep the female ferrule clean.

Is your ferrule stuck? Use "Liquid Wrench", which you can get at any auto-parts store. Just spray it around the male ferrule and let it drip down. In a few minutes you will be able to pull it apart.

Getting Out Line Tangles

Use a pair of large fabric needles to work out these tangles. They have a smooth finish which won't damage the line as you work the mess out. They are also handy to sew canvas tarp, leather, or carpet strips.

Pocket Tackle box

Attach a cord to your pocket tackle box, so you don't worry about dropping it in the water or leaving it behind. Just drill an undersized hole near the back of the box and insert a small eye-screw. A know will stop the cord from slipping through the eye. Just put a clip on the other end so that you can secure the rope to a belt loop or buttonhole.

Avoiding Line Twist

Line twist is the leading cause of fouled fishing. To check for it, pull off enough line to span your outstretched hands - about 6 feet. Next, bring your hands together in front of you, causing the line to drop into a loop. If the loop wraps around itself, you have line twist. Remove it by trolling about 100 feet of line behind a boat. Next install a ball-bearing swivel to prevent future line twist.

Knots Are Key

One of the most important things in losing or landing a hooked fish is your knot. Be certain the knot you are tying is strong and properly tied.

To make sure, tie your usual knot and test it against other knots. A good test is to take two four-inch sections of a broom handle with the screw eye in the center of each. Tie a knot in each screw eye and pull steadily until you see which knot survives. Do it 10 times to get an average. The knot that holds best should be your new knot.

Anchor Pulley, Keep it Quiet

If you use an anchor pulley, you risk spooking the fish as most pulleys eventually start to squeak. Try this alternative to a pulley:

Get a large U-bolt, a few nuts and washers, and an old-style glass or porcelain fencepost insulator.

Slip the insulator on a U-bolt, drill a couple of holes to accommodate the bolt, and tighten it to the mounting surface. The anchor rope will slide freely in the insulator's groove, and the anchor lowers and raises as effortlessly as with a pulley, especially once the rope is wet.

Casting Poppers

Casting poppers with a fly rod is awkward. To get better distance bore a slightly undersized small hole in the popper, just big enough to fit a BB in. It should fit snugly and will give you another 30 feet of casting distance at least.

Cheap and easy depth finder

Using two felt-tipped markers (red and black) mark an anchor rope as follows: A single red mark around the rope at five feet, a red and black mark at 10 feet, a single red mark at 15 feet, two black marks at 20 feet, a single red and two black marks at 25 feet and three black marks at 30. Use the color code red for every five feet and multiples of black for 10 feet.

Netting baitfish

Increases the efficiency of your minnow scoop by putting a bend in it. Just turn the wire handle down 90 degrees, then push the net back on line. The forward-positioned net makes it much easier to trap a baitfish against the inside of an open-top bucket.

A Cheap Anchor For A Fishing Boat

For holding a good-sized boat over a rocky bottom, use a large swivel snap to fasten four fee of heavy chain to a standard mushroom anchor. You can get one from a junkyard. The chain boosts the anchor's weight and holding power, provides convenient handles for lowering and raising, and gives extra leverage when an anchor jams in rocks or snags. When he brings it aboard, he coils the heavy chain on a bed of old foam-rubber pads so it doesn't rattle around or dent his boat. In calm water, he simply unsnaps the chain and uses the mushroom anchor by itself.


By Frank Faldo


How To Find Fish

Ponds

Anywhere there is a pond; it could be a hidden hotspot for fish. The bottom line is, no matter how small the pond may be, it is only a matter of time until the fish find it. If you live near farmland, a great way to scout around for these hidden hotspots is to schedule a flight over the area and map out any bodies of water you may have missed.

Using Hay

If it is legal in your area, buy some spoiled hay from garden supply stores under the label "mulch hay". Dump a few bales in the water. Grubs and insects will fall out, and will provide fish food to keep fish in your spot.

New Body Of Water

If you are going to start fishing a newly created body of water (like a reservoir), here are some things to keep in mind.

For the first 2 years, it will be very easy to catch the fish, though they will be smaller (t though about 50% larger in the second year). The 3rd year will prove more of a challenge, as the fish are larger and savvier. It is important to move around the lake and watch where the experienced anglers are getting action. Also keep tabs on where and when each species is feeding. Also, make a note of the moon phase when you record this information, so that you can refer to it during the same phase in following years.

You will probably discover that the bass feed best at dawn and dusk, bluegills during midmorning and midafternoon, crappies under lantern light at night, and white bass at high noon.

After this third year, these proven tactics will really start to pay off. For bass, remember to give a variety of offerings. Lay out one of each; plastic worm, overhead spinner, surface noisemaker, crankbait, and weedless spoon.

Old Lake, Never Fished Before

Fish in older lakes are very savvy because they have been approached by "every trick in the book" by experienced anglers. Largemouth bass, in these areas, have been shown to move as much as 10 miles in one day in search of food. To target them, troll some deep running lures that just nudge bottom cover.

Bluegills are much more relaxed, and stay around cover. However, crappies tend to roam just like the bass.

Keep on the lookout for moving bubbles - it usually indicates bass feeding towards the bottom.

Charting Underwater Structure

Many fishermen would just love to strap on scuba gear and map out the underwater structures in their favorite body of water.

There is a method of doing this that will not require all the effort of getting diving gear, certifications, etc. Simply wait until the water level is at its lowest (usually during the spring and summer. If the water drop-off is in the double digit range, you will be able to stand on high ground and look over the areas that you fish.

Using a pencil and paper, sketch out every rock, stump, and drop-off. These structures and the bottom they rest on should be charted - then when the water goes back up you won't have to guess what structure your locator has picked up.

Behind Waterfalls

Try fishing behind waterfalls. They naturally collect food behind, and this attracts small minnows and game fish. Bait is typically better than lures in these situations. Keep the bait there long enough to give fish a chance.

The Wind

You will do better in a lake or pond on the windward side. The wind will cause floating insects to collect at the end, and the wave action will churn up food form the bottom. At the least this will attract forage fish that will attract larger fish such as bass or pike.

Go To The Trees

Overhanging trees are sometimes bastions for fish. If you notice any of the following things about the tree you are considering, chances are you will get some bites:

?Flowering trees - insects will be abundant for the pollen, and will make their way into the water - fish love this.

?Defoliated tress - indicate presence of moths, sawflies, and beetles (same idea as the above)

?Trees cracked by lighting or winds provide housing for insects

?Woodpeckers signal presence of insects

Cherry, horse chestnut, apple, dogwood, hawthorn, and catalpa usually have more insects.


By Frank Faldo


Chumming and Plankton Fish Catching Tips

In night fishing 95% of success is determined before your line is wet. It is recommended to start an evening feeding frenzy along the food chain with your big game fish as the final predator.

Proper chumming

The darker the skies get, the more fish rely on their senses of smell and movement. The fish must sense either wounded prey moving, or the smell of food. A good method for this is to set out a good chum line. Drop your strip bait into the chum, or fish live bait just out side the slick, or at the bottom.

Most species of fish, in either freshwater or saltwater, are predominantly night feeders. If you are able to get a fish feeding frenzy going with either the chum line, even those fish that don't normally feed at night will jump into the swarm of feeding. One of the best things about fishing when the skies get darker are that fish are much more cooperative at night. The larger of almost every fish species is more willing to bite because they are less wary and have a harder time seeing line or leader.

Typically, when the evening food chain has been started, the larger fish will be deeper. If you aren't getting hits, bring your bait up a little and catch the smaller skinny ones for awhile. Remember to keep checking deep, the big ones will eventually come. All that food is too hard to resist!

When fishing at night, the use of berley is essential! Use a deep water berley system, such as The Secret Weapon, to get a heap of berley down to the bottom before it gets dark. This is a very effective method that many fishermen either aren't aware of or don't use.

The Importance Of Plankton

Most daytime strategies involve frantic pursuit of prey that may not even be interested (hungry) when located. At night, the key is to find the plankton, relax and entice the big game to come to you. The key is locating the plankton, not necessarily your game fish.

You can use daylight hours to locate large quantities of plankton - this is where the fish will feed at night. Most species of bait fish feed on plankton, so it is important to know where a lot of plankton is located.

As you are searching for an anchor spot, make sure to be on the lookout for "stained water". This is water that contains plankton and or the nutrients that attract plankton. You want to target stained water that is 45 - 70 feet deep.

By Frank Faldo


How to Fish Spring Trout Streams

Fishing spring creeks isn't easy. Don't expect large quantities of catches, but do expect a challenging experience which has a certain mystique about it. Catching just a few trout, will give you a feeling of accomplishment.

Spinfishing is illegal on most spring creeks, but you can use a variety of flyfishing methods such as sight casting to "rooters" burrowing in aquatic plants for scuds, nymphs and sow bugs. You can slap out chunky streamers to tease big fish from deep, dark pools. You can fish terrestrials during no-hatch periods, or you can wait patiently for mayfly emergences, when trout rise furiously all around you.

Delicate presentations are important, so keep your tackle light. Use an eight to nine foot rod taking a No. 4 to 6 weight-forward or double-taper floating line, plus an eight to 14 foot knotless leader tapering to a 4X to 7X tippet is perfect.

Keep in mind that your casting positions can be critical in determining whether your fly is snatched up boldly or ignored on spring creeks. Try different deliveries from several different locations to find which is best. Try quartering upstream across a downstream casts until you get just eh right float to fool a particularly difficult trout.

Know what stage of insect the trout are consuming. This can vary from fish to fish and from minute to minute as the hatch progresses. When the first mayflies appear, most trout feed on the emerging insects drifting in the surface film as they struggle to free themselves from their nymphal skins. Always carry a good supply of emerger imitations when fishing a spring creek hatch.


By Frank Faldo


Saltwater Fishing Tips

Get Rid Of Sharks

Sharks buggin' you? To get rid of them pour some fish blood on a paper towel or newspaper and roll it into a ball. Toss it overboard and the sharks will follow it with the current.

Many anglers move much too quickly from spot to spot. Many times a hot spot is passed right over. Don't just cast out a couple times and move on - probe it thoroughly from the deepest point right up to the most shallow. Try at least two different lures/bait.

Fishing on the perimeter

Always try the edges of the perimeter first, instead of plopping your bait or lure into the middle. If you do hook a fish in the middle, it will scare the others away, but if you "milk" the edges of the perimeter first, you can later move into the unsuspecting ones in the middle.

Surf fishing

With surf fishing, remember that fish are tight against the shore, so make most of your casts parallel to the sand. Don't send your cast out too far.

The best tides range from half rising to half falling - especially when early or late in the day. Of course, if there is bait, the predators will always be there, but it just makes it easier if fishing during the half tides.

If you fish by an inlet, fish in the outgoing water which brings the bait out to sea. This will hold the best action for strikes. Just let the outgoing water carry your bait out in a natural way.

Find a beachfront - they all of their share of structures such as holes, pockets, rocks, reefs, and other things. These will hold fish, and locating them is critical if you want success. Also find spots where channels lead to deep water - these will often times hold game fish. The fish usually follow these deeper channels until food is found.

Fish aggressively by walking back and forth and fishing areas that appear likely to hold fish. You can see the boils of feeding fish in hot spots - and keep an eye out for bait. Watch the birds as well; they are one of the best indicators of fish in the area.

Obviously, use the freshest live-bait possible, and change it often. You really want your bait on bottom, with a lighter weight - this will give you the best chance for stimulating strikes.

When using lures, use ones that can be cast easily. Switch out often to get to different depths, and experiment with the speed of retrieve. Use finer-diameter monofilament line because it gives better action to both natural baits and artificial lures.

If you hook a big one, keep it in front of you as you wind it in - running as you need to. As you bring it close, it will make a few runs out - just drop your tip and let it go. When it gets really close, use the waves to bring it even closer - timing it.

Fresh Shrimp

When you have live shrimp that you are going to fish, it is important to make sure they are alive and kicking - they will catch more fish this way. Keep them uncrowded, well aerated, and cool.

Use an ice chest as a shrimp box. It has a strong lid that can double as a seat, a plug for easy draining, and is well insulated to help ward off the bait-killing heat.

Instead of using ice to keep the shrimp cool, freeze water in plastic bottles so that when the ice melts it won't dilute the water and kill the shrimp. When the shrimp is failing to get strikes, use brightly colored shrimp by dying them with food coloring. This will stimulate strikes if regular colored shrimp aren't working.

Shrimp Bait

Using sand shrimp as bait is an excellent choice because it is a popular meal for bottom feeders. Additionally, it gives of a big scent, which will attract them.

Unfortunately, they are fragile and almost impossible to keep on a hook.

Use a safety pin hook designed especially to hold soft baits like sand shrimp. The pin of the hook should run the full length of the back of the bait, leaving the tail and pincers free to move. Some people use a few turns of lead wire, the kind used for weighting flies, to help hold the shrimp.

Storing jigs

Large saltwater jigs are not only heavy but also bulky. Finding a place to store them safely and conveniently can be a problem. Use a five-gallon plastic bucket with a lid. Just below the bucket's lip, drill or punch equidistant holes all the way around. Place the jigs inside, hanging them through the holes from their big hooks. Pop the top back on; label the bucket, and presto! Your lures are stored in a safe, untangled and accessible container.


By Frank Faldo


Night Fishing Preparation

I have to admit this subject bores me to tears. Amazingly, the simple fact is that every time I interviewed a fisherman about night fishing tips he mentioned preparation at the top of the list.

As boring as the topic can be, make it a habit to go through this section as a checklist before embarking an a night fishing excursion. I am guilty of forgetting some essentials from time to time - make sure you don't!

Early morning, evening, and night fishing can be extremely fulfilling (in terms of the FUN you have and the amount of big fish you CATCH). It all depends on how prepared you are for the trip. Here are some tips to make sure that you have an amazing experience, and catch a ton of big fish.

Equipment Checks & Stuff You Must Consider

Go through each tackle box you are going to take and locate every item you need, making sure everything is in the proper place. It is important to be even more organized than normal because with night fishing you must rely on your sense of touch and sound to find what you are looking for. The more organized your gear and tackle is, the easier it is for you to find what you need. It is so frustrating to not be able to find your pliers, hooks, extra line, etc. in the dark! You must have visual knowledge of where these things are!

Make sure to bring several light sources on your trip. Have some extra flashlights and a good high candle power beam. Don't forget to bring extra batteries!

Pre-tie enough leaders and rigs to last the entire trip. This will save you tons of time, and you'll be glad you took this extra step of preparation!

If you don't have a first aid kit, get one! If you have one, double check it! You are more prone to injury at night, and be prepared to handle little cuts and bruises - especially if you are on a boat!

L.E.D. headlamps are very effective. If at all possible, have one on hand. The headlight helps with unhooking (and much more) - they are convenient than a handheld light. There are some L.E.D. headlights that put out great light, and the batteries last a long time. Also, tying on lures can almost be impossible in total darkness without the help of a headlamp that keeps both hands free. The less time an angler spends changing lures and retying in the dark, the more time the angler will spend fishing.

Because fish caught tend to be bigger at night it would pay to step up a line class. This puts you more in control of the fight and will save time in getting the fish to the boat.

Boat Preparation (if you fish off of a boat, be prepared to be prepared!)

Night fishing from a boat can be very productive and safe if you have the right equipment, you are organized, stick to a set plan, and are confident about the area you intend to fish. If you are going out on a boat, make sure it is in good working order! This goes without saying, but it is so important I will say it anyway You don't want to get stuck out there at night. Really, you should always check your boat no matter what time you go out fishing. However, you want to be especially sure to double, triple, and quadruple check everything if you are going on an evening trip!

Know the layout on the boat; it is important to avoid accidents. In your artificial lighting your reaction time to problems and unmanned rods bending is going to be at least double. Take some time to place your gear appropriately, and take note of where everything is before the sun goes down. Everything takes twice as long at night as it is.

Bow and stern lights are required and essential equipment on your boat and they must be lit when visibility is reduced. Striking unseen objects at night is the most often reported nighttime accident and unlit boats lead as those unseen objects. The temptation to venture forth without proper lighting is not only illegal, but also extremely foolish.

A proper and fully functional warning device (horn) becomes a vital piece of equipment in the darkness. It can be used to warn approaching craft as to your presence and also can be used to draw attention in the event of problems arising. Although not required unless off shore, visual distress signals (flares) should be on board.

An approved type fire extinguisher that is currently dated should be onboard and in a convenient and ready location. During a fire is no time to find out that the extinguisher will not function because it is out of date.

A paddle is required (for smallish boats), not optional equipment, and again should be in a convenient and accessible location.

An anchoring device with adequate line in both size and length for your boat. Deployment of the anchor should occur at the first sign of trouble to keep your boat in its present safe location. Too often then anchor is the last thing thought of and boats end up drifting into dangerous situations.

Some sort of bailing device should be on board. Pumps are useless when the battery goes dead.

A radio with weather band capability is not only recommended for day operation but is an essential piece of equipment at night. Those clouds that look harmless that you see floating over can be hiding a serious storm. The whole world could know about it but if you have no means of hearing the warnings you can be caught by nature's worst.

Navigation tools, which are helpful in the daylight, become absolutely essential for safety at night. Obviously your best choice for nighttime operation would be a GPS. However, a compass would be a considerable assistant in the dark. Not only is everything different out there at night, but also things such as fog can move in with no apparent warning and without a means of determining direction you are dead in the water.

Personal floatation devices (properly fitted) for each person on board are at the top of the list and should be worn by everyone when fishing at night. Finding someone that has fallen overboard in the daytime is generally easy, but in the dark can be quite difficult. A throw able flotation device is also required equipment and should be in a convenient location.

Make sure that your boat batteries have a full charge before leaving home. In most states your boat lights have to remain on throughout the night. Running a black light, electric trolling motor, fish finders, and other gadgets can take a toll on the battery through the course of a night trip. It may be wise to carry an extra battery aboard just in case.

Insect repellent is a must. You should never leave the boat ramp without a good bottle for those trips when the bugs are biting more than the bass.

Make sure you are anchored securely and not drifting. This is critical if you are fishing close to headlands or structure where there is turbulent water. When you are settled, get a radio check and try all lights on board before it gets dark, so if there is a problem, it can be fixed before nightfall.

First aid kit, basic tools, manuals etc. are all recommended.

Check The Weather

As obvious as this one is, too many people forget to do a simple check of the forecast. Try to pick a night where the weather forecast is good. It is tough enough to move around in the dark as it is. Bad weather makes it even harder. This can really "make or break" your fishing trip.


By Frank Faldo


6.6.08

Do You Know How To Clean A Fish?

Now that you have caught your dream fish, do you know how to clean?
Good job. You must be so proud of yourself. You have just landed the biggest fish of all. How do you clean it? You certainly don't want those ugly fish scales all over your wife's clean kitchen. Now? what to do. What about cleaning the fish before you leave your fishing spot.
You will need a great knife to start with-a fish fillet knife. Spread out some old newspaper. Use a fish scaler or knife and work against the grain of the scale. Once all the scales are removed, you can toss the newspaper and rinse the fish.
Now it gets even messier. Do you know how to gut the fish? The less mess the better. Take your knife with the blade pointed toward the fish's head, poke the stomach and slit the fish moving the fillet knife towards the fish's head. Do not cut deep.
Secondly, take the fish fillet knife with the blade pointing toward the fish's tail and open the stomach. Remove all the fish guts.
Thirdly, remove the gills and lastly, wrap up the messy newspaper and toss. There you have it. A perfectly cleaned fish.
by Catherine Kenyeres